Womenswear this season is all about daring to be bare, with collections featuring a trail of micro-miniskirts, midriff shirts, and translucent fabric.
Fringing in abundance, biker jackets abounding, outsized tailoring, all-white outfits, and strong black stripes were among the other trends featured at the season's shows in Paris, London, New York, and Milan. All of it is attention-getting, assuring that the fashionable woman will stick out even while carefully disguised.
Many designers attempted to reproduce the famous Roaring Twenties over the winter, hoping that once Covid-19 faded, a festive attitude would emerge.
While the coronavirus is still with us and we haven't started partying like Jay Gatsby, Prohibition-era styling is still alive and well this season, with diaphanous fringed frocks shaking and shimmying at Christian Dior, JW Anderson, Alaa, Burberry, Jil Sander, Rodarte, Versace, Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, and Balmain.
These dynamic garments, much appreciated by Charleston-dancing flappers of the day, will look just as spectacular on a 2020s dance floor as they did a century ago during the Jazz Age.
New York City was developing a significantly more rugged style mainstay around the same time the flappers were jiving in flimsy frocks. The Schott Perfecto leather jacket was created in the 1920s to satisfy the needs of early motorcyclists, with a large collar for wind protection, a doubled-over front, and an asymmetric zip closing that was designed to be more comfy when the chest lay low on a motorcycle's gasoline tank.
Tom Ford, Prada, Balenciaga, Celine, Alexander McQueen, Simone Rocha, Acne, Ports 1961, Tod's, Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana all presented jackets inspired by this classic this summer, though we wouldn't recommend wearing one of these opulent interpretations for a high-speed Ducati ride. Instead, pair with something delicate and sheer.
Miniskirts and midriffs
Fashion follows a 20-year cycle, so it's no wonder that the Y2K era has had a significant impact on current trends. Logo baby tees are back, denim waistlines are dipping low to expose branded underwear, belts are worn with functionless frivolity – and the midriff is back, to the sorrow of those who overindulged during lockdown.
This summer, abs and legs will be front and center in minuscule miniskirts and belly-baring crop tops, harkening back to the (initial) era of Paris Hilton and Britney Spears. Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Bottega Veneta, Chanel, Hermès, and Prada all had little skirts, while Isabel Marant, Etro, Zimmerman, Tom Ford, and Givenchy all featured midriffs. Meanwhile, the full collection is available at Miu Miu.
All there in black and white
This summer, pure white ensembles are sure to complement many a tan. There's a plain white monochromatic outfit to suit all preferences and circumstances, from Hermès' techy athleisure vibe to The Row's flowing resort styling, and from Chloé's hippie chic to Alexander McQueen's finely adorned craftsmanship.
If white alone is a touch too ethereal for you, Jil Sander, Comme des Garçons, Balenciaga, Carolina Herrera, Schiaparelli, Marni, and Chanel all have strong black and white pairings in their spring/summer 2022 designs. The prevalent theme was heavy, op art-style monochromatic stripes, while polka dots and animal patterns occasionally occurred.
Go for a ‘blazer of glory’
Grace Jones wore broad-shouldered tailoring from Giorgio Armani's autumn 1981 collection for the cover of the classic Grace Jones album "Nightclubbing," which was inspired by the 15th century Japanese costumes in Akira Kurosawa's previous year's film Kagemusha.
Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Raf Simons, and Tom Ford all exhibited angular, oversized blazers and tuxedo jackets for summer 2022, and the statement piece dominated Saint Laurent's catwalk.
The easygoing appearance is often paired with the midriff crop top and miniskirt trend, and it's evocative of Princess Diana wearing a jacket casually at polo. It's more formally produced, and it's reminiscent of the 1980s' women's power suits – and, of course, Ms Jones' powerful, sculpted stance.